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Is our quinoa consumption hurting Bolivians?

The increased demand for quinoa is raising prices in Bolivia so that natives can no longer afford it and instead many are turning to cheaper processed foods like white rice.

When I read the news in the New York Times about Americans eating record amounts of quinoa, I was heartened. Finally, something in the news about the US and food that didn’t involve junk food and obesity. Below the headline, more good news: The increased demand for quinoa is raising wages of farmers in Bolivia, one of the poorest countries in the world.

And then, a few sentences later buzzed the fly in the ointment: The increased demand for quinoa is raising prices in Bolivia so that natives can no longer afford it and instead many are turning to cheaper processed foods like white rice.  As a result malnutrition rates in the country’s quinoa-growing regions are climbing. Damn, here I was thinking that in addition to eating a healthy food, my quinoa consumption was helping a developing country.

So, are we helping Bolivians or hurting them by eating and selling quinoa?

Obviously helping farmers make more money is a good thing. According to other news reports, some Bolivians who left rural areas for city work are returning to farming because they can earn a living now.

Another positive sign is that the issue is on the government’s radar. It’s providing loans to small farmers and rations are given to pregnant women and children.

I checked in with the people at Trans Fair to see if they were aware of the issue and, sure enough, they were.  According to Paul Rice, President and CEO of Fair Trade USA, funds earned by fair-trade certified National Association of Quinoa Producers farmers are using the money to improve the production of their crops.

So, is our growing quinoa consumption hurting Bolivians? For now, I think the good outweighs the bad. It will be interesting to see how the Bolivian government handles the situation and that could affect my future buying patterns.  I will commit to buying only fair-trade certified quinoa—organic, of course.

 

Discuss this Blog Entry 5

josef rosenfeld (not verified)
on Apr 20, 2011

I find it interesting that the author feels it is ok to make Bolivians pay a higher price for a staple grain/seed so long as she is buying only fair trade organic quinoa.

It intrigues me that Anna feels that by her paying a few cents more per pound for organic, fair trade quinoa - the good, outweighs the fact that now Bolivian peasants cannot afford a staple food item and have turned to buying processed foods because they are cheaper in cost - which are also cheaper in nutrients and will most likely be the cause of an increase of undernourished Bolivian children, overweight Bolivian adults and an increase in type II diabetes and hypertension in those overwight adults - the bad.

If the demand for quinoa in the US and Europe slackened, the supply in Bolivia would increase and the price would go down, and those people would be able to afford a staple item once again.

Trying to justify the suffering of many by saying that the good you are doing in supporting the few fair trade/organic quinoa growers is pathetic and selfish.

Adey (not verified)
on Jan 18, 2013

Its really simple, the Bolivian government needs to ensure local supply and pricing mechanism. To suggest that engaging in Fair Trade is bad because of rampant capitalism takes local buyers out the market is looking in the wrong place.

Anna Soref
on Apr 20, 2011

As I said in the blog, I believe that good outweighs the bad in American consumers buying quinoa for several reasons: The money from exported quinoa sales is helping Bolivian farmers make a living. Additionally, the Bolivian government is monitoring the situation and providing quinoa to pregnant women and children and loans to small farmers.

On top of that, I personally will make an effort to purchase fair-trade and organic quinoa because it is an additional step in supporting sustainable farming practices and fair wages.

Alter Eco Americas (not verified)
on Apr 21, 2011

We have previously shared our thoughts on the New York Times article via our Facebook page and wish to provide again our firsthand experience as a fair trade company working with quinoa communities in Bolivia. First and foremost, we at Alter Eco are pleased that these discussions are shining light on the struggle of quinoa farmers in the Bolivian Altiplano, clearly one of the poorest areas in the world. Alter Eco has been working with two quinoa cooperatives in this region since 1998, pioneering fair trade quinoa, providing fair wages to quinoa farmers whose work in the field is harsh beyond imagination. At Alter Eco, we travel to Bolivia three times a year (we just returned most recently last week) to visit producers and their organizations in order to conduct internal audits that verify that the price we pay is just and reflects our commitment to fair living wages for farmers; that the growing methods are organic; and that farmer organizations grow as sustainably as can be so that the success of quinoa worldwide directly improves their lives, and may continue to do so for subsequent generations.

For several years, we have studied the impact on local populations of the increase in the price of quinoa, specifically in regard to malnourishment. At the farmer level—the poorest among the poor in Bolivia—what we have found with our cooperative partners is actually the opposite of what Anna and the article in the New York Times states. We found that each year, our farmers were able to set aside quantities of quinoa in order to feed themselves and their families, and that they are able to do so precisely because the price of quinoa is now high enough. Higher revenues allow them to diversify their eating regimen, allow them to buy meat and other proteins, and also to keep personal stores of the precious grain. Higher prices, and our fair trade premiums, also help improve their lifestyle in other ways—for example, by helping send their kids to school, improving their villages, roads, etc. Another positive outcome (that Anna accurately cites) is that populations that once left the desolate quinoa fields are now coming back from the cities, with kids returning to take over their parents’ farms because they now see a decent foreseeable future in cultivating quinoa.

The rising profile and price of quinoa on the world market is a unique opportunity for one of the poorest regions in the world to transform itself. It is critical, however, that fair trade practices be respected among importers, distributors and retailers in developed countries, so that the farmers get a fair share of the higher price of quinoa on shelf. And at Alter Eco, we believe that the price of quinoa today is a fair price, and needs to stay at this level.

As for the rest of Bolivia, in the cities outside of quinoa growing areas, it is true that quinoa has today become quite expensive for local populations to purchase. It is however inaccurate to say that this has radically changed the way Bolivianos consume the grain. The Spanish conquistadors considered quinoa a low-grade food, for the poorest among the population, and quinoa has not been part of the daily diet in Bolivia for decades. And furthermore, to address a separate point from the New York Times article, globalization in general has accelerated the taste for and consumption of western processed foods and diets by local populations in developing countries around the world.

Alter Eco’s corporate mission and raison d’etre is to help support the disenfranchised of the global economy. We stand side by side with the poorest farmers in the world, to help them get a fair price for what they produce in order to improve their lives. What is happening in Bolivia today is a fantastic opportunity to help these communities, as long as fair trade standards are guaranteed. At this point in time, we can safely assure Alter Eco consumers that the purchase of our fair trade quinoa has a very positive impact on the people that currently need it the most.

Mathieu Senard
Co-Founder & CEO
Alter Eco Americas

Anonymous (not verified)
on Aug 14, 2011

White rice does not cause people to be overweight. Hamburgers cause obesity which at least for now are rare in Bolivia. The Japanese eat a lot of rice and they live long and are slim. So all of a sudden now Bolivians now eating it and all of a sudden it is viewed like hamburgers. Still sucks that that they have hard time aqquiring their tradional food though.

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