Superfruits enrich nutricosmetics

Rainforest exotics are changing the face of cosmetics and personal-care products. Jeanette Jacknin, MD, reveals the next generation of cutting-edge ingredients that add marketing cache to new natural product launches

With the greening of America, natural foods and ingredients have been 'in' for several years. But recently there's been an exciting new trend of adding these natural foods and oils to beauty and skincare products. The same wonderful qualities that make these superfruits and plants so important for your whole body's health also boost the skin's health and beauty. More and more companies are searching for exotic plants and fruits that have been used for centuries in their native environments to help heal and beautify the skin.

Let's look at some of the newly rediscovered exotic botanicals — acerola, buriti oil, cupuacu, murumuru butter, and urucum oil — and see what effect these naturals have on making the skin look more youthful.

Acerola fruit has a remarkably high vitamin C content, as well as antioxidants carotenoids and bioflavonoids.¹ In two studies comparing 14 tropical fruits from Brazil (açai was not on the list), acerola came out tops in antioxidant activity, ascorbic acid and total phenols.^2,3 More functionally, a 2008 study found acerola extract significantly lightened the UVB-irradiated skin pigmentation of brown guinea pigs.⁴ From this research, personal-care companies, from The Face Shop to Sophyto, are marketing topical acerola extracts to lighten human skin, or at least reduce the appearance of dullness, improve complexion and clarify the skin.

Buriti oil is extracted from the fruit of the moriche palm or buriti tree that grows in the swamps of the Brazilian Amazon. The oil is red-orange in colour. It has rich emollient properties, making it excellent for body butters, shampoos and cleansers. Compositionally, it is a rich source of beta-carotene,⁵ is an excellent source of oleic and essential fatty acids,⁶ and is high in antioxidant tocopherols. A 2009 study found it possesses a naturally occurring SPF that filters and absorbs UV rays, helping to prevent UV-induced skin cancer.⁷ It can be applied topically for burns, and is said to promote scar tissue formation and foster collagen production. The Body Shop uses it in its Buriti Baby line of body butter to moisturize baby's delicate skin.

Cupuacu is called a "pharmacy in a fruit" as it is often used for pain, especially abdominal, among indigenous Brazilian peoples. It is rich in antioxidant-rich polyphenols, espec-ially theograndin I and II, as well as nine known flavonoid antioxidants including quercetin.⁸ Cupuacu butter is softer and creamier than cocoa butter, which is what makes skin feel so smooth with its application. Its phytosterol content gives it a high water-absorption capacity and water-loss reduction — it retains 240 per cent more moisture than lanolin, making it useful as a carrier for other ingredients.⁹ This helps stabilise emulsions and is said to improve the appearance of prematurely ageing skin. Recent in vivo studies have been have demonstrated its excellent anti-inflammatory activity. This anti-inflammatory action — together with the high level of essential fatty acids and phytosterols — make it an exceptional natural treatment for dermatitis and eczema. It offers good opportunities in developing skincare lines. Finished products include J Sabatelli's Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Cupuacu and Anita Grant's Amaretto di Cupuacu Moisturizer.

Murumuru butter is a fatty solid, off-white to yellowish in colour and used as an intense natural moisturizer. Rich in oleic and linoleic oils with a high content of vitamin A, it creates a protective film that makes it an effective skin-barrier repair agent. Used in nutricosmetic products, it is touted as being able to work beneath the surface of the skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity. It is good for dry skin and hair conditioners. Garden State Naturals and Dr Mercola incorporate it into products.

Urucum oil is also known as annatto oil. Its natural reddish colour is indicative of a high carotenoid content, especially the pigments norbixin and bixin, which protect against UV rays and have antioxidant properties.¹⁰ Rainforest tribes used the entire plant as medicine for centuries. A tea is made with shoots and is used as an astringent to treat skin problems. In Brazil, a leaf decoction is used topically to treat burns. It's also used in Peruvian herbal medicine as a wash for skin infections and wounds. Underutilised until now, it is being used increasingly in body-care products and cosmetics because it adds a rich, sunny colour to creams, lotions, soaps and shampoos.

Board-certified and licensed dermatologist Jeanette Jacknin, MD, is a holistic cosmetic dermatologist, author of Smart Medicine for Your Skin (Penguin Putnam, 2001), speaker, consultant and founder of JJMD Botanical Dermatology Skin Care. www.JJMDskin care.com This feature was adapted from her seminar at the Supply Side West trade show in Las Vegas in October 2009.

Sunblock lines by Alba Botanica Alba Botanica has unveiled its Very Emollient and Hawaiian Natural Sunblock collections. Six of the products have earned the Skin Cancer Foundation Seal of Recommendation. All are hypo-allergenic, paraben-free, vegetarian and are never tested on animals. The Very Emollient Natural Sunblock Collection line provides a high level of UVA and UVB protection. The Very Emollient Mineral Sunblock Collection has mineral-based reflective barriers. Alba's Hawaiian Natural Sunblock Collection contains tropical fruit and flower extracts with botanical oils and certified-organic aloe vera. It includes green tea, aloe vera and coconut dry oil formulas. www.AlbaBotanica.com Co-Q10 lotion by Aubrey Organics Aubrey Organics has introduced Honeysuckle Co-Q10 Replenishing Moisturizing Lotion to combat ageing. One study showed Co-Q10 reduces the depth of wrinkles by 27 per cent by protecting the skin cell structure from free radical damage. The honeysuckle lotion contains natural hydrators including organic aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis); organic jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis); and Aubrey Organics' proprietary ingredient, organic rosa mosqueta oil (Rosa rubiginosa). The lotion also contains sweet almond oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), a rich emollient; and honeysuckle extract (Lonicera caprifolium), a skin freshener and purifier. www.aubreyorganics.com Sunscreen line by JASÖN JASÖN Sunbrellas Sun Care collection provides broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection, as well as some of the highest sun protection factors in the natural sunscreen category. The line includes: Sport Natural Sunblock SPF 45, which is water and sweat resistant, and contains açai extract to help protect against free-radical damage; Family Natural Sunblock SPF 45, a water-resistant formula with vitamin E, shea butter and green-tea extract; Facial Natural Sunblock SPF 20, a sheer, hypoallergenic and oil-free formula that will not clog pores; Kids Natural Sunblock SPF 45, a tear-free formula with chamomile and calendula extracts; and Mineral Based Natural Sunblock SPF 30, a fragrance-free, physical sunblock containing a blend of chamomile and marigold extracts. www.hain-celestial.com Oceanic clay line by Zia Natural Zia Natural Skincare's new Ultimates Oceanic Clay line is a nutrient-rich collection that includes a cleanser, toner, moisturiser and mask. The line contains naturally active ingredients and essential oils that hydrate, exfoliate and reduce the signs of ageing. Unique ingredients, such as oceanic clay, sea algae, myrtle leaf and marine mineral water, work to leave skin smooth, reduce the signs of ageing and provide antioxidant protection. Osmotic action, unique to Oceanic Clay, draws moisture from deep within, leaving the skin's surface hydrated. Every product is free of parabens, synthetic colours and fragrances, and is completely vegetarian. www.zianatural.com

 

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